Museum - Kizhi. Description of the Kizhi Museum, interesting sights of Kizhi Island. ⛪ Kizhi, Kizhi, Kizhi ... Excursion to the Museum-Reserve Interesting Facts about the Preobrazhensky Church in the Kizhi
I continue the story of a recent trip to Karelia. The first part of me was devoted to the sights of Petrozavodsk, in the same proceeding to the story about the qui. Yes, which Russian did not hear about the quiz! But there were not everything there.
Museum under open sky Kizhi is located on the island in Lake Onega. There are tourists there from Petrozavodsk high-speed boats on underwater wings. The road takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. It is worth this pleasure (back and forth) - 1950 rubles. And I also believed that in the New Zealand trains expensive ...
Mondering that these ships are always some problems that expressed in the chronic lack of tickets, I specifically timed a trip to the Estonian public holiday on August 20, which this year came on Thursday, and the next day I took a bit down with such a calculation, to be in Petrozavodsk on Friday, i.e. on a weekday.
Large river Station In Petrozavodsk, it does not work, shipping tickets are sold in a small booth at the pier. I approached almost the opening myself, by 8 am, but the near future, which tickets were offered to me, was only at 14:15. What is characteristic, in the schedule of "meteors" there was no such time. Well, it means that there will be time to walk around the city.
In this time I was on the pier. The people at the same time were not very much, a lot of chairs in the Meteoreon remained free, and this is despite the fact that all day in the booth offered tickets for this time. I wonder where all the tickets at 11:30 and 12:15 went away?
A few words about the Meteor itself. Its interior, apparently, did not change from Soviet times. Foofer chairs were so sealed that they had to sit almost on naked metal tubes. However, the toilet was quite decent :)
Meteor against the background of Petrozavodsk Embankment
Open decks on the "meteors" are not provided, but in the middle of the salon there was a smoking area from which it was possible to bother with a camera and to shoot something from the scenery floating past. It was from here that I managed to cover the Kizhi graveyard before we moored to the island.
Yes, and I still manage to measure IGO on the smartphone middle speed "Meteor" - somewhere 57 km / h.
River pier in the towns
So, we read to the beginning that the Russian north guide writes about the quizhas from the Polyglot publishing house, bought by me the day before in the House of Military Book in Nevsky:
Kizhi Island (length 7 km, width - from 1.5 to 0.5 km) is located in the south of the Zanezhsky Peninsula among the picturesque cluster of the islands, called Kiezhsky Schkers. The island has long been covered with forests, but arable land and hay. Kiezhsky Schhers and South Zaughty Impact of centuries were inhabited, there are numerous archaeological monuments that dated the epoch of the middle and late stone. About 9-6.5 thousand years ago, tribes belonging to the eastern branch of the European appeals, and those who came here in the X century. Novgorod residents met with the Sami population and all. The name of the island comes from the language of Karelov-people - the word Kiza meant "game, fun, dance", so that Kizhi can be translated as the "island of playing" or "fun". By the time of the transition of these lands to the Moscow State in 1478, the population was already Russian, although the culture of frozen was distinguished by the unique peculiarcy, representing the alloy of Slavic and Finnish cultures, while the locals clearly realized themselves as descendants of Novgorod. XX century In the endeavor during the centuries, the old-Russian legends and epics were passed during the centuries and wasons and simultaneously developed wooden architecture, folk crafts. Kizhi. Postcard Kizhi Island traditionally been the center of the villages of the South Zaonezhka and the Unitaryworthy Lips - Savior-Kizhsky Graveyard, the County, which included about 180 villages, their description first occurs in the wristbook of Andrei Pleshcheyev for 1582-1583, and after 20 years, "115 villages of living and 88 launched. " Kizhi graveyard united the surrounding peasants to the 30s. XX century In troubled time, the grasp was ruined by the Swedes and Polish-Lithuanian detachments, so after signing the world with Sweden around Kizhsky, the fortress was cut down to protect against attacks. The threat of foreign intervention weakened only with the onset of the Petrovsky era and victory in the Northern War. In the beginning. XVIII century Kizhsky's peasants are attributed to new ironing plants, where they were to work into account of the filings that even strong farms ruined. Second floor. XVIII century By the end, the wave of rebounds swept after the royal decree on increasing the filings. The famous Kizhsky uprising is 1769-1771. It was shot by government troops. It is believed that the most beautiful Assumption Church in Kondopoga was a kind of monument to the victims of reprisals with the rebels. During the Second World War, Zaughnie for about three years was in Finnish occupation, but already in 1945, the Kizhi polls declared a state reserve, in 1951 the first architecture monument was transported to the island - the house of the peasant Oshevneva. In 1990 architectural ensemble Kizhi is incorporated on the list of world monuments cultural heritage UNESCO. Now in the historical and architectural and ethnographic museum-reserve "Kizhi", which occupies about 10 thousand hectares of the territory of about 10 thousand hectares, there are 87 monuments of traditional folk architecture of the XIV-twentieth centuries, including the Kizhsky ensemble, 26 unique archaeological sites, more than ten historic settlements. territory of the Kizhskaya parish. The museum attend about 170 thousand tourists from Russia and abroad annually.
(actually the distance between buildings is much more)
kIZHI.KARELIA.R..
The basis of the collection of architectural monuments of the Museum-Reserve, its semantic center is the temple ensemble of the Kizhsky disease (XVIII-XIH century), consisting of the 22-head of the Transfiguration Church, the Nine Pokrovskaya, Tuter Bell Tower and a chopped log fence.
Kizhi graveyard
The Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord (1714) is the most famous building of the Kizhi. The names of the creators are unknown, and beautiful legend About the Mastery of Nestor, who, having completed the work, threw an ax in the lake with the words "There was no such church and there will be no", very widespread in the north in relation to many monuments of wooden architecture. It is not very reliably and one more popular view that it cuts off without a single nail - Osin Lemeh (scales, covering chapters) is attached to the domes with small nails.
The height of the church is 37 m, the basis of the structure is the eight of four tips, such structures are called "twenty-dvuvutenki". On the eight there are two more, smaller. Chapters differ in the tier size to the tier in order to avoid monotony and create a kind of rhythmic pattern. The system of protecting the construction of rotting is not less thought out, even decorative elements often serve to remove water and proper ventilation of air. Inside the temple, the vertical volume was blocked by the sixteen-marched ceiling - "heaven" lost during the war, a carved iconostasis was preserved (1770). It is made up of 104 icons, the oldest of which typical of the northern school of icon painting are the end of the XVII century.
Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord
Church of the Transfiguration, a perfect work of Zanezhsky Masters, is a kind of "swan song" of Russian wooden architecture, which reached the top of its development at this time. It was built as a "cold" summer temple, and next to her in half a century later, the "warm" transship of the Pokrov Virgin (1764) was erected. Builders managed to create a work that was a harmonious part of the ensemble, and not just a separate building. In the Pokrovsk Church, the initial "subordination" is visible to the dominant Preobrazhensky temple - a powerful eight of the fourthics, which could carry a huge tent, crowned with a modest nine greed with small, elegant domes; Expanding upward silhouette emphasizes the pyramid of the main building of the ensemble. However, some researchers believe that the Pokrovskaya Church was originally built as a tent. Currently, a four-core characteristic iconostasis with 44 Icones of XVII-XIH centuries has been restored. In the Seine, the exhibition "History of the Kizhsky Orthodox coming" is working.
The bell tower of the Kizhsky Pogosa (1863) was built at the time when Russian wooden architecture was experiencing a decline, and yet, despite the apparent rustling and alien traditions of the details, the construction was surprisingly harmoniously joined the ensemble. The scheme is traditional - eight in the fourthics. The cargo, two-thirds of the height of the height, the Chetverik surprises connoisseurs of cult wooden buildings with its disproportion, however, it can be noted that it is raised exactly to the height of the burts of the Preobrazhensky temple and the height of the church of the Pokrovskaya Church, which once again emphasizes the unity of three buildings again. Currently, a remote control is installed on the bell tower of the Kizhsky. In the suspension on the console - 12 bells (9 vintage and 3 modern).
Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord, Bell Tower and the Church of the Intercession of the Virgin
By the middle of the XX century. Only stone ridge remained from the fence. The appearance of the initial fence was restored by the restorers in the artists of the XVIII century. In the book of N. Zeretkovsky "Journey through Ladoga and Onega Lakes". The reconstruction project was based on the preserved fence of the Vodlosorsky-Ilinskiy vision, as well as the tedious ease of the Arkhangelsk region. A modern fence is a high stone embankment, which laid a wall of powerful logs, pulled by ripples. On top of the wall - a duplex chiseling roof. On the western corner, the fence is a small turret, covered by a four-tie roof - Epan. From the north and east to the polish lead wickets with openwork door canvases. The central entrance in the western wall on both sides is limited to two cuts under the overall roof. The log fence was reconstructed on the project of architect A.Olovnikov in 1959
Church of the resurrection of Lazarus
Another major attractions of the Museum-Reserve is the Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus, brought from the Murom Monastery, from the eastern shore of Onega Lake. This small tranquil church spawned a lot of legends among believers and hypotheses among scientists. The subject of disputes for almost a century is the dating of the building of the temple. For the first time, the Church is mentioned in the will of the Byzantine monk, the founder of the Murom Monastery, Lazarus Muromsky, who died in 1391, but in the document by Olonets, the spiritual consistory about it is described rather contradictory: "In the name of Rev. Lazarus, the cemetery, built in 7086 From Mirozdanya (1578), wooden, built by the founder of this monastery Rev. Lazar. " Analysis of architectural details does not make clarity in this question. The church preserved an iconostasis, consisting of 17 Icons of the XVI-CHVH centuries. It is an oldest type of bunk-tier iconostasis, consisting of local and deesus rows, including royal gates and northern Ponomarian doors.
House peasant Oshevneva
Not far from Kizhsky, the Architectural and Ethnographic Complex "Russian Zanezhka" is located. The exhibition "village" began in 1951-1959. From the house brought from the Big Clemane Island, N. Soshevneva (1876). The building is built in the form of a "wallet" - the yard-shed adjoins the side wall of the housing and is overlapped with a batch asymmetric roof. The economic extension included the livestock, the seeding and two storerooms. The residential part is drawn to the lake and richly decorated, it includes 2 horses, halls, hill, sovereign in the attic, pantry and agony. I was pleased with the room with the furnace, it is believed that in the wab of the first floor, the owners spent the winter, and in the summer they were detained throughout the house. Now in the house restored the interiors of the Blind of Burning, Zhaleov, the hall is held in the hall ethnographic exhibitions. Along the second floor there is a gulbishche - an open gallery, the windows of lateral frontones are decorated with balconies. Previously, the windows of windows were painted in orange-yellow color, and the sinks of the roofs - in red, which was very revived the appearance of the house.
In addition to the main house, the peasant manor is also separately worthy business buildings. Fires have always been the main disaster of the peasants, and the most valuable - grain and flour, not allowed to die from the main house of the barn. Next to the house of Oshevnev, there are several business buildings: a two-storey barn from the village of South Yard (XVIII century), barn from the village of Lipovitsy (beginning. XX century) and a bath from the village of Mizostrov (beginning xx century).
House peasant Elizarova
The house of the peasant Elizarova (Kon. XIX century) from the village of Poternism is somewhat less. The interiors of both buildings are similar, but in contrast to the house of Oshchevneva, Elizarov's house was heated in black. This method of heating the room was largely more convenient for peasant families - less than firewood was consumed, the bourgeoader did not start, it was warmer in the hollow. Smoke gathered above the shelves, "Vorontsov", and the walls below this level and the ceilings were thoroughly and rushed every week. The house of Elizarova is one-story, it is complicated from powerful logs and modestly decorated, although the side balconies and the "Gulbishche" are present here. In the economic premises there is an exhibition that tells about the secrets of creating a boat "Kizhenka". On the shores near the house there is a bath (beginning xx century) from the village of Ust-Yandom.
A little more south of Kizhsky is the most modest house of Szepina (1907). The type of construction here is a "timber" when residential and economic premises are stretched into a line under one roof. In the interior you can see objects associated with the Bondar craft (manufacturer of barrels, buckets, zhobanes and other wooden dishes).
Windmill
The exhibition sector "Russian frights" includes a water mill (1875) from Birch Selga, a windmill (1928-1929) from the pumping and chapel of Archangel Mikhail (beginning. XVIII century) from the village of Lelikozero.
Chapel of Archangel Mikhaila
The Zapny Chapel of Archangel Mikhail belongs to the common type of northern chapels. This is a three-part log house, consisting of Seine, the meal and the chapel itself. The construction is richly decorated with carved elements, it has two-tier iconostasis with the icons of a local writing and the "heaven" - the painted ceiling of 12 segments. From the western coast of Onega Lakes were brought to Kizhi House Sergeyev (1908-1910) and forge (beginning xx century) from the village of Suisar.
House peasant Sergeeva
In the central part of the island there are two historical villages: a poultry mentioned for the first time in 1563, eastern Bank And Vasilyevo, mentioned in 1582, - on Western. These villages have preserved the buildings that have now entered the museum fund, many of the architectural monuments were brought from other seats of frozen: peasant houses, stables, barns and riga. Near the village of Yamek, the Savior Savior Savior Savior (XVII-XVIII) from the village of Vigo, and the architectural dominant Vasilyevo is the local chapel of the Assumption of Our Lady (XVII-XVIII centuries), which is the most ancient builder Kizhi Islands.
House peasant Yakovlev
Three large peasant homes and several business buildings make up the exposure sector Russians, which presents the architecture of residents of the eastern coast of Onega Lake, and also north can be seen at home characteristic of Karel and Veps. The Karel Manor here is represented by the house of the peasant Yakovleva (1980-1990s.) From the village of Klezkla, Poklonnomy Cross and barnings, and among the monuments of the Northern Karel and Karel-People interested in the chapel of the three saint from the village of Kavgoro (the second. Paul. XVIII century) . Two barn and sauna make up the economic buildings of vegets.
The routes offered by the museum's excursion service are familiar with the monuments of the island of visitors. Recently, the "ecological trail", which gives an idea of \u200b\u200bthe nature of the island, is developed interactive family route In the house of Yakovlev, where you can take part in traditional peasant economic and household processes. During museum holidays, folklore ensemble often performs.
There are several cafes and shopping kiosks on the territory of the museum, living rooms. For the night you can also be asked to the villages to local residents.
Postcard. Kizhi with bird flight
A few words about how the exhibits of the museum are located. Most of them is located on a small area, in the part of the island that south of the pier. Three hours that are disassembled on a tour, quite enough for an unhurried inspection. But here the village of Yamek, Vasilyevo and all other buildings, that from the pier to the north, the usual excursion does not enter. How to get to them - it is not entirely clear. On the road, I was noticed by a bus, but while I was thinking, he left. Perhaps he was just designed to move around the island. Walking here to walk quite tediously. But I still have almost an hour before sending the ship and I still went to that part of the island that official route Excluded. It came to the windmill, which stands there on the hillock, at the same time looked at the village of Yamek and on the chapel of the deceasure of the unclean, which was towers in the distance. But before Vasilyevo's village no longer went, I was afraid to be late. That's interesting, but there is no bicycle rental?
Another windmill. Left is visible Chapel of Savior Self-Making
There was also an unexplained question, is it possible to come here on one ship, and go to the next. The fact is that when landing everyone gives bageiks on the neck when selling tickets also ask the phone number. All this is done, apparently, in order for people to be lost on the island, they have not lagged behind their ship and have not broken the well-established conveyor for tourist services.
View of the nose "Meteor" and Kizhi
Now summarize. Well, what to say about the quiz. I liked the museum as a whole, although the expectations were of course more. The cost of the entrance ticket is 130 rubles for citizens of the Russian Federation (and equivalent to them, the GYY :)) Completely sane. But 625 rubles for foreigners, or almost 15 euros, it is already a bit. For such money, even Western European museums already need to spin to customers. And then everything is holding, one can say, on one exhibit - the 22-head of the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord. Meanwhile, it is clearly not eternal, and the metal plates on her swollen walls say about it. Well, it's hard in our climate with wooden buildings to stand for 300 years! So she collapses, what then? And then Kiji will simply turn into "Vaqaumuumuum", which in the world is full.
I wonder if there are no craftsmen now, who could build something like that? Is it so difficult with modern technologies? Take the basis of anything old, make a project on a computer, pull the logs in size and collect. Of course, at first it will be "Novodel", but the whole old one was once a new model! And most of the local exhibits were collected at this place actually again. I think, in such a place, new buildings could fit into a common ensemble. In a word, it is necessary to somehow develop the museum further, the world does not stand still!
Often in the literature, in the conversational speech of individual rural areas, the word "graveyard" is used as a synonym for the word "cemetery". But to the provincial reform of 1775 it was a small locality With a church, a cemetery, one or more houses. So in the twigs, such a graveyard is preserved.
Architectural ensemble "Kizhsky graveyard"
To a large extent, this happened due to the non-indifference of such people as academician architecture L.V. Dahl, artist I.Ya. Bilibin, painter, restorer and art historian I.E. Grabar, historian architecture L.V. Krasovsky, who visited here, contributed to the transformation of the graveyard in the historical monument. Already after the revolution, in the context of the fight against the church, closed to conducting a service, he was accepted under the protection of the state.
If you have a contest of the most photographed species and plots in Russia, the Kizhi graveyard will certainly be included in the top ten. So he photinhane and so well fit into environment. The graveyard is two churches, bell tower, cemetery and fence. For me personally, it was discovered that the graveyard on the island of Kizhi is not just a complex of buildings. Triple wooden ensemble is a whole direction of the temple architecture, common in the Russian north. Today they have only 6. Another one, except for Kizhi, in Karelia, in Lake Yandom and four in the Arkhangelsk region. But Kizhi is still the best option.
First of all, this is the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord - a beautiful building with a height of 37 meters, topped with 23 chapters, built in 1714, solely from the tree on the place of the former burned from the lightning strike. Summer temple, i.e. Not heated and the service in winter was not carried out. The iconostasis of the temple is composed of 102 icons, whose writing dates different yearsbelonging to the XVII-XIX centuries.
Several stories and legends are associated with the construction of the temple, which contribute to the increase of its status. This is a well-known story about the Mavel's carpenter, which built a temple without a single nail and at the end of construction, threw his ax to the lake so that no one could build a similar masterpiece. This is the version that the drawing of the future church is made by Peter Great. Of course, it's beautiful, but without nails only a log house (so always built), and about the ax, Nestor got excited ... But as for Peter, then why not. Builder's king and here could participate.
The second is the Church of the Intercession of the Most Holy Theotokos -Postrica in 1694. During the fire was practically destroyed. Again built it already in 1764. She looks like the younger sister of Preobrazhenskaya, for, working on the restoration of the lost shrine, the builders specifically sought to look like. The height of this church is 26 meters, crowns her nine chapters. This church was winter.
The third component of the ensemble is the Tent Bell Tower, built in 1863, (previously demolished the previousness) was repeatedly rebuilt and restored, even more often churches. The latter (or rather, the extreme) renovation was completed in 1990. The fences in the concept of a "triple wooden ensemble" are usually not included, but in the quiz it is worthy of saying about it separately at least a few words. 300 meters around the perimeter of the passage from the log cabin, with a duplex roof, on the foundation from boulders (see photo) - this is not a fence, it is a fortress wall.
For your information. Kizhi graveyard is worthy of the most enthusiastic reviews and high marks both with historical and architectural and aesthetic points of view. At the same time, I hardly imagine that since the beginning of the 70s. Tourists arrived here Massovo. It is said that the first visitors of the museum were mostly foreigners. Later, Russian lovers of tourism began to show interest in such a protected place. In any case, if you turn to the history of the museum organization, then there is nothing to say that there is nothing to say.
Kizhi Museum
For more than fifty years there is this unique museum. Overcoming the mass of obstacles and bureaucratic obstacles, lack of funding, complex climatic conditionsAlone people who love their history were able to organize everything that exhibits united into a single exhibition complement each other and at the same time continue to live every life.
The Museum-Reserve consists of ten sectors. The most visited from them:
Sector "Russian Zonezhye", including Kizhi graveyard, the chapel of Mikhail Archangel, the Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus, the house of Oschevnina (the first brought to the island of Exhibs, 1876. Buildings), Bikanin Windmill and several dozen houses, barns, baths, forges, yard buildings from a dozen Karelian villages and efforts;
Sector "Vasilyevo"- Restored and complemented by wooden architecture from neighboring regions, the Zanezhskaya village of the end of the XIX-early XX centuries. with the chapel of the Assumption of the Mother of God;
Sector "Yamka" - Reconstruction of another village, practically consisting of brought houses. Until recently, 14 people lived in the village. It is somewhat away from the main exposition. It's less visited.
In other sectors, there are exhibits illustrating the culture and life of Karel-Livvikov, features of Veppian villages, the architecture of the northern regions of Karelia.
Excursions in the Museum-Reserve are interesting and informative. Especially if we are lucky with the weather. But one moment does not care about the features of architecture, even rural, not just. Therefore, the most interesting objects will try to show.
Important! The territory of the Museum-Reserve has the status providing for its serious protection. There are prohibited any activities that are not related to service and maintaining museum exhibits. Therefore, the collection of mushrooms and berries is the prerogative of local residents. Bonping bonuses, fishing, unauthorized overnight stay are prohibited. On the entire nature reserve, hunting, the collection of fluff and eggs, geological and survey work is not allowed. Limited movement of yachts and other types of transport.
The current state of the Kizhi Museum-Reserve is pleased with tourists, and contributes to the development of this industry in the region. But his staff are constantly in a state of uncertainty in tomorrow. However, it does not only apply to the museum.
If you like our story or you want to contact the author of the article, leave comments to the publication, and you will answer you. Perhaps you yourself want to tell about your tourist discoveries, our online guidebook readers will be very interested to learn about what you saw, and what seemed interesting to you! Leave comments, questions, tell about travel impressions, suggest topics for new reviews and articles!
No, probably, such a person in Russia, who would not hear about the island and the Kizhi Museum-Reserve. Its without exaggeration can be called one of the most beautiful places in Russia.
Today I want to show the beauty of the island during the foggy June white nights and beautiful summer days. I will also talk about the farthest corners of the island, which 90% of all tourists simply do not have time to visit.
Kizhi Island is located in Karelia, on the Lake Onega, where the architectural monument is ideally inscribed - the ensemble of the Kizhsky is known for the whole world.
Geographically about. Kiezh is located in the 66-clometrous remoteness from the city of Petrozavodsk and the lungs among Kizh's Schhers are so called picturesque accumulations of small islets. Kiezi is one of the most beautiful islands of our huge country.
Buying entry ticketswe headed in northern part Islands to walk in local villages. Inspect the main part of the Wooden architecture museum was decided in the late afternoon, when the bulk of visitors will return to Petrozavodsk.
Reaching the penultimate Pudozhsky sector and watching, we returned to central part Islands in the village of Yamek. Yamek village has one street and 10 people of a permanent population. Despite such an universal scale, we managed to walk through it and its surroundings more than three hours. Here we looked at the life, life and households of locals, saw real houses and baths, in which there are hundreds of years and rest indigenous Karelian Islanders.
In the hole, the indescribable atmosphere of silence, tranquility and peace. I could not even believe that thousands of tourists from different continents roam behind the neighboring hill, and we are in one of the most popular places of Russia. It was behind this that we arrived here, exactly what I wanted to see Kizhi.
Overweight We, following the plan, went to inspect the main attractions of the museum. Tourists did not become less. Swimming powers filled the museum with new ones, mostly foreign groups. Honestly, I was pleasantly surprised by this attention to Russia and its beauties on the part of French, Italian and English-speaking tourists.
I wonder how the fashion was changed for the past century. These mothers and daughters in the clothes of different generations met on the way to the museum
On the island you can rent a bike or use the services of this equestrian crew.
In the southern part of the Wooden Architecture Museum there is such picturesque baywhich houses Sergeeva's house from the village of Logmorough. It was built more than a century ago.
The forge from the village of Suisar is nearby
The chapel of Archangel Mikhail from the village of Lelikozero was built in the second half of the 18th century.
The chapel of the resurrection of Lazarus Murom Monastery. The oldest chapel in the quiz, refers to the XIV century.
The architecture of wooden buildings and their scales are impressed. Foreigners there, in general, go with round eyes and open mouths. It was very interesting to observe them. It seems that they did not understand where they were and how it could be built.
On this frame, three objects in one: a bath from the village of Ust-Yandom, Kurnya Hzba Elizarova from the village of Hellka Cleetsky Islands and Windmill-Stolbovka N.Ya. Bikanina from the village of Volkostrov.
Coshesshev's convulsion house from the village of Osvnevo. It consists of three lines, a flax, bells over two-storey hay, a bunk yard with a cook, under-stop logs in the corners. Such a design allowed to change the rotting logs of the hlev, without disassembling the roof.
After 8 hours of tourists on the island no longer find. You stay almost one in the midst of incredible beauty.
The case went to the sunset and we, having troughing a little, hurried to the hill near the village of Yamek. I really liked the view that opens from there. Lifting up to his top, I saw a haze and thought that it was dust from the car passing along the road, it turned out that the whole island began to dive into the fog closer to the sunset. This is how the windmill from the village of Voroni Island at sunset looks like, she was on the very first photo.
And so - the chapel of the rescue of the delicious from the village of Vigovo (17-18 century)
Having risen to this chapel, we have opened a beautiful view of the Bay of the Gulf.
The sun has almost hidden over the horizon and we hurried to a short rest. After all, in a few hours I had to meet dawn.
Having connected about two hours, I went to meet dawn. Before the sunrise there was still forty minutes.
The gray-blue almost cloudless sky gradually stained in red and orange dawn color. All lowlands were filled with thick fog.
Climbing the hill to the chapel of the Savior of the delicious, from which almost the entire island is visible, in front of me opened a very beautiful and not quite standard view of the Savior-Kiezhsky polish.
Assumption Chapel from Vasilyevo village looks like a ship floating on endless foggy spaces.
The chapel of the three saint from the village of Kavgorod is towers over layered foggy rivers.
The first rays of the morning sun, I found near Pudog's sector, fog over the bays of Onega Lake began to gradually dissipate.
Pudozhsky sector is dedicated to the Russian village of Pudozhya and consists of one street at which there are 3 houses with extensions: Belyaeva House from the village of Kubovskaya, Potashev House from the village of Phahyme and Butin's house from the village of Pelozero.
On the opposite side, they are located: Bar Belosheev from the village of Pyhosero and Ambar Pakhomova from the village of Zarechye.
Around ringing silence. Sometimes from somewhere from afar, from the side of the lake, the cry of chaps comes from the side, which at such an early hour have staged a breakfast.
It seems that I am on a not inhabited island. I am alone among incredible beauty surrounded by antique centuries-old buildings. These are real Kizhi. I am sure that more than 99% of tourists have not seen such an island. I must say, lost a lot.
For the main museum of the island in the morning, one pleasure is for a walk. But yesterday we have already looked here, let's see and today, so I'll show you a couple of morning photos and I will stop a couple of hours, because today there is still a return road to St. Petersburg.
This place everyone knows perfectly.
On this I will finish my photovolument about one of the most beautiful islands of Russia. I hope you were interested.
Kizhi is beautiful IslandLocated in Lake Onega, in Karelia.
Open and populated from the most ancient times, Kizhi Island is a huge museum of architecture.
The time of time, Kizhi, was famous for his craft. When artists and poets were lived here, who passed their generation skills. It was here that the epics were created about Ilya Muromster and Vladimir Red Sun ...
Hopping on the island is the first step and inhaling the first sip of the air, you begin to feel the trend of light antiques and limitless freedom.
When there were 14 villages on the island, but only two were preserved - Yamk and Vasilyevo. One is located on the eastern shore of the lake, the other - on the Western shore.
The villages consist of several houses, but it does not prevent tourists from all over the country to come here all year round to admire the amazing landscapes and unusually beautiful monuments architecture.
Excursions to Kizhi pass on meteors from Petrozavodsk and within river cruises.
But the time on the island is a little, much less than when visiting the island of Valaam.
Therefore, you need to independently arrange priorities: what is interesting to see what sights to visit and see.
Perhaps the most important attraction is Transfiguration Church (1714). The church was built without a single nail and has twenty-two gold-plated domes, whose view from a bird's eye view, separates the temple from other monuments of the architecture of the island. The temple is completed so that together with the tapes from the four sides of the world, it forms a cross.
Altar is addressed to the West, and on the east side there is a refectory with a huge porch, a view from which is more than beautiful. The gaze is open villages, straits, settlements.
The inner decoration of the temple produces an indelible feeling of pacification. Inside the altar, made in four tiers and stolen 102 icons, and all the space is spilled calm and clean light.
Another beautiful temple - Pokrovskaya church (1764). The temple is made of wood and has nine chapters, the unusual form of which gives the temple of some lightness and airiness. Outside the temple is decorated with wooden poles.
Of course, the Pokrovsk Church is inferior to Transfiguration and is more likely to be addressed.
Interior decoration is very modest.
The first iconostasis was lost during history. The current iconostasis was made in 1950 during the restoration of the temple.
The third attraction immediately paying attention to Church of the resurrection of Lazarus.
The legend states that this temple built the Rev. Ink Lazar himself, who died in 1391.
They also say that it was built thanks to the phenomenon of Lazaria Vasily Rev., Bishop Novgorod.
This temple subsequently became the first building of the Murom Monastery.
The construction of the monastery is dedicated to the Biblical event of the resurrection of Lazarus from Viph, in order to strengthen the faith of people in Jesus Christ.
Among local population There are rumors that the temple has a power healing. Rev. Lazarus declared saints, and his temple became the place of pilgrimage of believers from all countries.
Once the chapel was the attraction of the village of Lelikozero, but in 1961 transported to Kizhi Island.
The chapel looks very picturesque.
It consists of three parts and is represented in the form of a rectangle stretched from the West to the East.
From the north side to the chapel, the Seni is attached, and the window is drawn to the West.
In some places, the chapel creates a dual roof, when one roof seems to be from another, surprising the audience by skill and the virtuosity of the architect. Over the hay, a wonderful bell tower can be seen, which ends with a lush tent.
Outside the chapel is decorated with towels, carved rhombus and circles. Tes the roof of red, ends in the form of peak.
Inside the chapel is the "Sky".
In the center of it there is an icon of Christ of the abstainholders, and in the perimeter - the plaque. In four corners there are images of evangelists.
Studying the island, the look will definitely fall on Tent bell towerbuilt in 1863 on the site of the old bell tower.
In 1874, the bell tower was rebuilt, as it was not possible to complete the eight.
The bell tower has the kind of fourth in the octa. The bellovers and nine columns that stick the tent ending with the head with a cross towards the eight. Chetverik from north to south cut through the passage with large arches.
The internal space of the bell tower is illuminated by four windows made in the form of an archer and a large window in the octal wall.
No matter how to describe on paper to understand it just needs to be seen.
Kiei ... they are.
A copy of the fence was recreated in 1959, according to the similarity of the preserved fortifications.
In addition to the ancient temples, there are others on the island of Kizhi, not less interesting places.
These are all sorts of mills, ancient huts and barns.
They are going from all over the region and are delivered to the island - the Museum to be reserved.
Among such buildings is especially allocated house Oshevneva.
It was brought from the village of Oshevnevo and has the kind of Karelian houses before the revolution. This is a large, two-story building, decorated with a variety of trim and carvings.
An example of a household building - barnbrought from the village of Kokkokal.
Svetka, delivered to the island from the village of Oshevnevo, will tell us about the lives of local peasants.
Think, simple life is not interesting? Mistaken ... :)
But I. wood windmill, Brought from Volkoskov to Kizhi Island. There are no more such mills in Karelia.
But not only the monuments are famous for Kizhi.
The nature of the island is so awesome that it is simply not possible to take a look from such magnificence.
Already approaching the island, you can see the fabulous outlines of the relief of the island, along the shores the string string stretches, and the meadows are seen, the sun glare play on the waves of the lake.
With the organization of dams on Sviri and the Belomor-Baltic Channel, many villages went under water. to save unique heritage Karelia, Kizhi Museum-Reserve was created.
The museum is at the disposal of about 50 thousand diverse items, telling about the lives of indigenous peoples of the region.
On the island, tourists can see how in ancient pearl earrings, embroidered women's balls, made toys and much more.
For half a century, Kizhi Island is a unique museum seeking to preserve all historical and architectural monuments of Karelia.
Kizhi is constantly evolving.
Not only new expositions open, but the emphasis shifts towards the interactive: craft shops-workshops, where you can spend a master class and make an interesting Karelian toy.
To participate in ideas (but this is lucky - they are satisfied with "on occasion", on some holidays.
Whatever it was, it is necessary to rush at the shots each minute. There are no hotels here and do not go with living on no 2 days.
Of course, you can buy a simple tour in Karelia - live in a hotel on the mainland, and visit Kizhi daily.
But there is no particular sense in this: there are other interesting places in Karelia, which are worth seeing: the same maritarian waters, Ruskaala. Kivach's waterfall and even a trip to Solovki (this is not so far from the quiz, as it seems).
The schedule of excursions should be built evenly so that the trip will be saturated and interesting.
Why exactly Kizhi?
Why Kizhi became the place where the monuments from all over Karelia began to bring?
Kizhi graveyard was a rich administrative center in Tsarist Russia. Life here was boiling before Peter the first.
Rich copper plants could afford to give money to the construction of the most unique churches. They sent ore on the weapon plants of Olonets and Petrozavodsk.
Industrialization Bescura Karelian villages, people moved to cities.
However, the story of the story passed through Kizh's polish so much that there was simply no other similar place on the path of river cruises.
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It is difficult to find an adult educated person in Russia who would not know about kizhi island. Everyone knows that this is a fantastic monument of wooden architecture, listed in the world's world cultural values \u200b\u200bof UNESCO.
Orthodox are convinced that the island in the Lake Onega with his wooden churches - almost the most sacred place in the Russian north.
Linguists argue, which of the northern peoples gave the name of the island of Kizhi - Weps or Finns. It is not clear that it means. According to the Veps, the name of the island comes from the word "KIZH", that is, "Moss." What is something, and moss in these places is more than enough!
Kizhi architectural ensemble. About 1900
But the same vegetices have another word - "kizi", that is, "playing, folk gulyan". Opponents believe that the island was ordered Finns or his close to them in Chud, Merya or Karelia. And in fact, he was called Kizhi Saari, which translates again as the "island of playing". But they mean not folk walking, but praying in sacred forests and on the sacred banks of Finno-Ugric gods.
Simply put, Kizhi Saari was the center of the pagan cult. With ritual dancing, chants and victims. In deep antiquity - bloody.
This non-Russian land
Regarding Russian island, only in the XI century, when Novgorodians came to these northern lands. They themselves, of course, did not live on the island, but the "attached" population was kept hard hand. Kizhi, like the other islands of Onega Lake, and the shores of this lake, were part of the Obluke five - one of the administrative and territorial units of the Novgorod Republic.
Of course, Christian Novgorod sought to carry the light of the new faith with a stunning Finno-Ugric souls. So the local people got on holy Place His playing orthodox church. It is this unobtrusive way that Orthodoxy on the lands of pagans was introduced.
True, what this church was - no one knows. It is clear that the wooden (with a stone at the quiz is not too good), but what looked and whether it was similar to the current temples - we do not know. The baptized locals (probably, like in other places), willingly went to church and no less diligently prayed to the pagan gods. That is, Kizhi continued for quite a long time, even in the XVII century.
This, however, did not prevent the island to become a stronghold of Onega Orthodoxy. In 1478, the independent Novgorod Republic fell, the new owners of the northern land became the Moscow Princes. To strengthen their power, in 1496 made Kizhi by the center of the new administrative unit - the Savior-Kizhsky disease.
Now the quiz people obeyed about 130 villages and villages on other islets and on the mainland, the Unicnaya lip and the whole south of the Zanezhsky Peninsula.
Local authorities settled in the towns, people's assets took place here, trade was carried out and judicial litigation. 12 villages on the island and two are mentioned in the wrist books of the late XVI century. wooden church: "Graveyard Spassky in the towns on Onega Lake, and on the Fourth Church SPASO transformation, and the other church of the Pokrov of the Virgin Mary".
There were also two parish churches: on the Great Lip and on the Sandal Lake Sandal Island. Both island churches were built on the so-called Maryanina Mountain, where pagan players were preferable.
According to one of the legends, the lightning hit them and the buildings of Dotley hit them. The legend probably did not arise from scratch. It is known that the Finno-Ugric peoples tearned the pagan rites and in Orthodox churches!
The fate of Metropolitan
Through Kizhi, a pilgrimage path from Moscow in the Solovetsky monastery lay in that epoch. There are also a legend about the young years of Metropolitan Philip (Kolycheva), famous for his dramatic confrontation with Ivan Grozny.
During the northern wanders, Philipp (then not yet Metropolitan and even not yet a monk) allegedly hired an employee to a rich peasant named Sidorsko Saturday in the village of Zharvish. The peasant determined his mouth of sheep. The locals were very shattered that year from snakes, even the mouth was afraid near the village of Cattle. The future saint drove the snakes.
He also put the hedge, which wolves could not overcome. And once I caught a sturgeon in the lake waters and brought a peasant to an Orthodox holiday. But he was a modest person, and when it began to say that he was creating miracles, immediately went on the road to Solovki.
Two legends are connected with the name of Philippa - about holy troll and Satin-chain. These are two capes who look at each other. One - on the southern tip of the island of Kizhi, the other - on the northern shore of the Big Clemotian (Climatsky) Island. Between them is never a freezing strait.
According to the legend, when Kolychev went to the strait to cross the mainland, transported it local, nicknamed the color of the hair of Smat. Cape, where Kolychev stood, began to call the holy troll, and the cape, where the Smol stood, became Smol-chain. A strip of non-freezing water received the name of the Saint Salma or "Holy Poultry".
The name of Philip, affected by the ruthless king of Ivan the Terrible, was very loved in the Russian north. It is not surprising that pilgrims who flowed into the Solovetsky monastery tied him and with gradually acquiring the hail of holiness island of Kizhi.
Without a single nail
In the XVII century, after the reign of Ivan the Terrible and the end of the vague time, the church of the island came to some decline. Local legend reads even that they launched and began to collapse. It was then that zipper and burned them to the ground. However, after a century, Peter the Great ordered to restore the temples.
In 1714, the construction of the Preobrazhenskaya Church began, but no longer on Maryanina Mount. One of the legends states that Peter personally designed this temple. Allegedly he sailed past the quietly, he saw it all launched there, moored to the shore and painted the cane on the coastal sand the plan of the future temple.
Another legend says that the project of the Church is entirely owned by a carpenter Nerstor - he designed the church, and it was built by it. And without a single nail. And when the construction was completed, Nestor threw the ax in the water of the lake and said: "Nicoli was not, Nicoli will not be." That is, no one has previously built anything like that, and no one else will build anything else.
Both legends with historical truth do not have anything in common. And Peter for the construction of the Transfiguration Church did not have a relationship, and the carpenter of Nestor did not exist. And in general, six years before construction in the quiz, a similar wooden structure was erected in the village of Anhimovo, which is located quite close to Kizhi.
The legend is incorrect that the multi-part northern churches are built without a single nail. Yes, the main designs were connected to each other with grooves as the details of the designer. But wooden scales on the domes had to strengthen how to strengthen, otherwise the dome of "bald" would have lost all the beauty in the very first year. They fucked them with iron pins, that is, almost planted on nails.
In addition to the Preobrazhensky church, Pokrovskaya, as well as a tent bell tower was erected. But the Temple of the Pokrov The Mother of God has built half a century later - in 1764. And the tent bell tower - and at all in 1863, on the spot of the dilapidated and the earlier construction of the earlier construction.
In ancient times, the complex of church buildings surrounded a wooden fence, which was supposed to play the role of a fortress wall. The fence, of course, was not preserved. The one that exists today is a modern reconstruction.
However, in antiquity, the fence was little functional. The invaders of Kizhi and the gift were not needed. Even with the Swedes there were no military clashes. But for this fence in 1769-1771, the Kizhskaya power was hiding from the rebels of the assigned peasants.
For the abrasion of the rebellion I had to send soldiers. Perhaps it was the only serious performance of the inhabitants of Kizhi against their bosses. Mostly life on the island flowed peacefully and quietly.
Since the XVII century, the island was mastered by industrialized copper smelting, and then iron. Over time, the Spaso-Kizhsky graveyard turned into a Kizhsky parish. Kizhi did not hurt the two Russian revolutions, nor two world wars.
Kiei never exploded and never bombed. So wooden buildings managed to be preserved in the form, in which they were from the moment of construction. So they are happy today to look.