Old Sevastopol road on the map. The south coast of Crimea. Old Yalta (Vorontsovskaya) road. History of the Calendar Trail
"Off-road for the mass consumer" - this is how you can call the road along which we went to the fifth base camp. From there we will leave for the Demerzhdzhi ghost valley, and then, along the old Bakhchisarai road to Kuibyshevo, having previously driven to Mount Ai-Petri. All in all, we delve into central part peninsula Crimea. The most famous sights of the peninsula remain behind, the wild Crimea lies ahead.
2. The search for a clearing for the fifth camp led us to a place where "adventurers" are brought on jeep tours, ride on prepared UAZ cars. They shake them well while driving over the stones, so that everyone who bought a ticket for a ZHIP safari realizes what the "Crimean off-road" is, and understands that it was not in vain that she paid the money for the adrenaline she received.
3. So that's it. Under the frowning glances of UAZ drivers who earn money by delivering tourists to the Dzhur-Dzhur waterfall, we drove in the Khapkhal gorge ... We drove unhurriedly, photographed beauty, circled the stones, until we were caught up with a "charged" UAZ - full of tourists. Caught up, buzzedto the delight of touristsin our back, and went to the waterfall.
4. In the meantime, we have found a beautiful clearing for the fifth camp ( 44.80506; 34.46464 ), between two plateaus - Demerdzhi and Karabi-Yayla.
By the way, this is practically the only place in close proximity to the waterfall where you can get up with a tent. Plus, there is a fresh water source nearby.
5. Beautiful views of the border of the Demerdzhi plateau open from the glade.
6. And to the border of the Karabi-Yayla plateau. On Karabi, now most likely space views, and zero visibility - because of this, space views open from the side. Actually, we are heading to Karabi.
7. As for the Dzhur-Dzhur waterfall, according to Wikipedia, it is the most powerful waterfall in Crimea: its average water consumption is 270 liters per second.
There is nothing more to say about the waterfall, except that a tick has stuck to the driver of the field. The latter, during the bath procedures, was creakily removed from the Seryogin's body. Then we went to the Demerdzhi ghost valley.
8. In general, thanks to landscape photographers, the Demerdzhi ghost valley was associated with wild horses in the frame, against the backdrop of beautiful mountains. And all the way, while driving to the valley of ghosts, somewhere deep in my soul I was worried - "What kind of photographer is I, if I don't bring a shot of horses against the background of Demerdzhi" (sarcasm). And here she is luck.
Photographing equids in front of foggy Demerdzhi - done.
9. Most likely, such activity of a small but proud donkey is explained by what he sees around.
10. Moreover, in such quantities.
11. And also, while we were driving to the valley, I noticed how the crew on the MPS got on our tail. Later it turned out that they were also from Moscow, they came to look for adventure on the fifth point. And the first question they asked me - "Damn, where can you get stuck here? We were told we will not pass at Demerdzhi, we followed you in the hope of getting stuck together - we were not stuck ...".
He offered them to break through to the Dzhurla tract. =) After that, just in case, they switched to the same wavelength with our radios, and left somewhere. We did not hear them in the radio again.
12. "For best places on this planet. "Naturally, we are talking about NIVU 4 * 4. See? And she is.
13. For a long time at Demerdzhi did not linger, or rather a squally wind with snow, forced us to go further. Passing the coastal cities, we went to the most beautiful road in Crimea.
14. The old Bakhchisarai road. Despite the fact that on the map this road looks like a secondary one, and there are signs before the entrance to the pass - "the pass is closed", every auto-traveler who has visited the Crimea should see this road with his own eyes.
15. In places the road is narrow. There is a mountain on the left, a cliff on the right.
16. Dozens of sharp turns, due to which oncoming cars take off from time to time. And suddenly a cornfield, with snow on the bumper. = o
On the street + 15.
17. At an altitude of 800 meters, the snow becomes more and more crazy views. We have to create emergency situations, stopping at the pass, in order to take a shot.
18. Turn 180 degrees, 300 meters and turn again, and again, and again turn 180 ...
19. To put it simply, the entire pass is about turns. And a long ascent to a height of 1000 meters.
20. And the higher - the more snow.
21. And even more desire to stop and take pictures of the beauty around.
22. Intermediate finish. The ascent is behind, in front of an equally spectacular descent.
23. But first, let's take a ride to Ai-Petri.
24. Here is Ai-Petri, or rather a fragment of it. By the way, the height of Ai-Petri is 1234 meters. 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 meters, very easy to remember.
25. The mountain offers a view of the "toy" Yalta, and a huge cloud on the horizon, which in 30 minutes will reach us, and will change the landscape around beyond recognition. Do not believe me, scroll down.
26. Yalta - like the Crimea is diverse. For example, five-star hotels.
27. Boarding houses of the times of the USSR, some of which have long been abandoned.
28. Private sector.
29. The epic advent of that very cloud from the Black Sea. The difference with the previous frame is several minutes.
30. General plan - for clarity.
How impressive it looks live - not to convey.
31. And a landscape that has changed beyond recognition.
32. After 15 minutes, the sun again.
33. And downhill along the old Bakhchisarai road. Again dizzying turns, crazy views around, cliffs ...
34. And a beech forest. Generally, beech grows in the mountains - at an altitude of 2300 m above sea level. Therefore, this section of the beech forest is unique.
35. Ordinary forest.
36. Landscape, usual for the old Bakhchisarai road.
37. And the Great Crimean Canyon. Which we did not have time to inspect. More precisely, we walked literally a kilometer, and realizing that it was not dark before it was necessary to find a place for the camp, we drove on.
39. In the end, it took us 8 hours to drive about 70 kilometers!
40. By sunset we found a beautiful path leading into a dense forest.
41. Where we set up the 5th camp.
42. From the coordinates of the fifth camp, perhaps the next time I'll start.
Our today's route will pass along the only one - the Old Sevastopol road, but it will not cover its entire length, but will conclude that section of it that is quite capable of being overcome in six to seven hours, given that the road will be flat, asphalt and without elevations. We will climb from Foros to the Baydar Gate, then, returning a little back, and head east along the highway. Such settlements as Foros, Mellas, Kastropol, Parkovoye, Ponizovka, Katsiveli will pass before our eyes, and we will pass directly through Landslide and Golubaya Bay. From the last settlement we will go down to the new highway Yalta - Sevastopol (South Coast Highway).
There are many options for starting the journey along the Old Sevastopol road. I suggest starting with Foros for two reasons. First, there is a smooth asphalt road that will take you up to the highway. Secondly, the most beautiful sections of it are from Foros to the village of Goluboy Bay, then the highway dives into Alupka. Thus, you have the opportunity to see this incomparable charm of the site.
Route scheme:
So, let's begin. It will not be difficult to get to Foros, or rather, to a stop on the main highway. It will not be difficult to find the road that rises from it up to the church. The road is flat, without sharp climbs.
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Having made a large loop to the east, it will soon turn west. The road runs very close to the rocks, which are impressive.
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Foros remained below, it is clearly visible from everywhere.
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Soon we will see the Foros Church, but we will enter it on the way back from the Baydarsky Pass.
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| View of the Foros Church from Old Sevastopol road |
in the area of the Foros Church |
And to the last to go quite a bit. You will not miss this famous pass, because it is crowned with the equally famous Baydar Gate. This monument was built by the Yalta architect Karl Eshliman to the end of the construction of the Sevastopol-Yalta highway, which lasted from 1837 to 1848 by order of the then Governor-General of the Taurida province, and therefore of the Crimea, including Vorontsov. The columns on the side of the portico facing the sea make it possible to call this structure propylaea, the most famous examples of which can be found in ancient Greek architecture. When you pass the Baydarskie gates, the lines from Mayakovsky's poem "Sevastopol - Yalta" come to mind:
And suddenly you scream
love bay
and soul,
and body,
and mouth.
So at once
get up
clouds and bay
in rupture
Baydarskiy gate.
And immediately
road
tedious and tedious,
into the tunnel,
pushing the brakes.
Here is a pile of stone
and the church above it -
horror
all marriages.
And again
nearly
on the rocks with a cheekbone,
from the sides
looks white.
Outside the gates there is a small market with souvenirs and provisions. You can climb directly to the Baydar Gate, there is viewpoint, from where a panoramic view of the Baydarskaya valley and the village of Foros opens. By the way, the height of this place is 503 meters above sea level according to some sources, according to others - 527. Nearby is the famous restaurant "Shalash", before the revolution there was a hotel and a guard station. The pass is surrounded on all sides by a forest.
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| Architectural monument Baydarskie gates at the Baydar pass |
View from Mount Foros to the Baydarsky pass |
From the Baydarsky pass we return to the Foros church. You can visit her or sit in the shade on the territory. You can also buy food at the kiosks in front of the church.
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The road goes further, making one loop, to the east. You are walking in tangible proximity to the mountains rising by the walls. And so it will be until the very pass Shaitan-Merdven, after which the road will gradually retreat from the mountain range.
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While still at the level of the Mellas village, you will notice the most beautiful peak of these places, Merdven-Kayasy. Just in front of it is the famous Shaitan-Merdven pass.
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The highway will come closest to the mountains near the place where the asphalt road from Oliva flows into it. On this road, you can comfortably go down to the new highway (South Coast Highway) if necessary.
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| The road from Oliva flows into to the Old Sevastopol road |
Old Sevastopol road in the area of Oliva |
We continue our journey. After about a kilometer from the fork, you will see a wooden entrance to the pass. If you do decide to climb it, Shaitan-Merdven will reward you with beautiful views, among other things, the Old Sevastopol road will be visible from it. Moreover, the ascent will not take more than half an hour.
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| The old Sevastopol road is suitable to the Shaitan-Merdven pass |
View of the Old Sevastopol road from the Shaitan-Merdven pass |
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A doorway under a rock will look unexpected, apparently for a technical purpose, a pleasant surprise - highway side decoration.
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| Technical room under the rock on Old Sevastopol road |
in the Foros area |
After a while, the forest will part, the road will become open, the mountains continue to float along our route. No, you won't be able to cover the camera.
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| On the old Sevastopol road in the area of Shaitan-Merdven |
Old Sevastopol road in the area of Castropol |
On the section of the road between Kastropol and Landslide, traces of landslides are noticeable. This is especially striking in the area of the village of Parkovoye. The largest rockfall, which left behind a bad memory and made the generation of local residents more cautious, occurred at the end of the 18th century. Then the village, still bearing the name Kuchuk-Koy, together with its neighbor Kikineiz (now Landslide) suffered greatly from a giant landslide. From now on, the main part of Parkovy is located below. The earthquake of 1927 also contributed to the formation of stone piles along the road. Above Parkov, these heaps are especially large, their collective name is Kuchuk-Koi stone chaos.
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| Landslide area in the Parkovy area |
Old Sevastopol road in the Parkovy area |
Sometimes, walking along the Old Sevastopol highway, you will find a notch in the rather smooth surface of the roadway, clearly left by a fallen stone, or even a whole boulder that has rolled down from a mountain slope.
And Parkovy slopes above the road have recently been well fortified.
The open area allows you to view the surroundings without interference. As you can see in the palm of your hand Parkovoye or, as it is also called, Beregovoye (it was Beregovoye that was attached to the urban-type settlement Parkovoye in the 70s of the last century). By the way, in the Parkovoye area there are two descents from the highway, the first to Kastropol, the second to Parkovoye itself.
It takes less than an hour to walk from the last turn to Landslide. Before reaching the village, you can see a path that goes up sharply. It will lead to the Kerezla tourist route, which takes those who wish to the Ai-Petrinskaya yayla in the area of Mount Morchek. We are entering the village.
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Part of it is located above, part is below the road, and the third part is generally a half-hour walk to the east. The village is quite quiet, there is a store where you can replenish stocks, and good Yalta onions are always sold here. From the eastern edge of the village, a trail goes through the vineyards to the Biyuk-Isar mountain, from which the Eski-Bogaz trail begins, leading to the yayla. Pushkin and Griboyedov mentioned Landslide in their diaries, and no wonder, because there was a Yamskaya station where horses were changed before crossing Shaitan-Merdven - before the earthquake it was completely passable for both people and animals.
In the area of the Baydarsky pass and the Foros church, you will probably be confused by the abundance of transport moving in both directions. However, they use the road to Foros to descend, and do not go further along the old highway. On the section from Foros to Landslide, you risk not seeing cars at all. And this is very nice. Deserted and open country, civilization seems to be not far away, but no sound penetrates into the domain of the old highway. In the Landslide area, a little more often you can meet a car. The thing is that this village, like the Blue Bay, is fed from this transport artery. Perhaps that is why they are so quiet and comfortable.
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The old Sevastopol highway is a rare example of a highway for the southern coast of Crimea, which turned out to be practically forgotten after a more convenient road appeared. As a rule, any paths along the coast are still used, since it has been mastered quite thoroughly. But on the old Sevastopol highway, a car can be found very rarely, since it passes far from the sea and does not lead to almost any demanded object.
Therefore, we suggest that you take a walk along it, which will not be difficult to do, using some of our tips.
First of all, you should think about equipment. Pay special attention to shoes - the fact is that you will not have to go along unpaved paths, but along an asphalt road. Therefore, instead of seemingly asking for hard hiking boots, it is better to choose sneakers with a springy sole. As for the rest of the clothes, you will have to walk in a completely civilized area, so it is not at all necessary to follow the militarized tourist dress code, although it will still not be very comfortable in an evening dress. Take with you something to drink (there will be no water for a very long section of the path) and a snack. In summer and winter, the track is of little interest, but in spring and autumn there will be something to see.
The old Sevastopol road runs quite high above sea level. This is due to the fact that its builders could not solve two problems using the technologies of their time, and therefore had to bypass them. The first is Mount Cat above Simeiz. The builders of the new Sevastopol highway had to "smash the ridge of the animal" made of very strong limestone. A little further in the direction of Sevastopol there is another mountain that stood in the way of road builders - Dragon or Ai-Yuri. They did it "easier" - they made the only automobile tunnel on the southern coast of Crimea.
You can pass the old Sevastopol highway from two sides - from Alupka to Foros, or vice versa. Let's assume that we will start from Yalta, and therefore it would be logical to go from Foros to Alupka, that is, to the point of departure. So, we will need to get to the fork where there is a turn to Foros.
However, we do not need him, but a road leading into the mountains to the Baydarskiye Vorota pass.
Both branches are actually opposite each other, so you can go either by the Foros bus, or by the Sevastopol bus. Foros is the farthest village within the so-called Big Yalta, and directly from the city it is located at a distance of 42 kilometers. It is interesting that to Sevastopol from Foros are closer and some locals prefer to look for work in the hero-city. It will take about an hour to get from Yalta, so we recommend leaving in the morning.
So, we reach the Foros fork and go up the road to start looking closely at one of the most famous Crimean churches - the Church of the Resurrection of Christ located on the steep Red Rock, which, by the way, celebrates its 120th anniversary on October 4, 2012. It was built at the expense of the Russian "tea king" Alexander Kuznetsov in honor of the miraculous rescue of the family of Alexander III in a train wreck. In Soviet times, the temple was used for industrial needs, including as a snack bar for tourists. Already under independent Ukraine, the then President Leonid Kuchma took care of the fate of the unusual church, and with his participation the church was restored, after which it became a very popular tourist and religious site. Often it is she who is chosen by famous politicians or show business figures for a wedding. It will take 4 kilometers to go to it along the road. True, initially the road makes a loop and, after passing 2 kilometers, you will be approximately above the point from which you started your journey. However, we do not recommend looking for short paths, since these are still mountains and often they lead to very steep slopes.
The road to the temple, as befits any mountain route, is very winding. Therefore, during the famous Yalta Rally race, one of the stages passes along the old Sevastopol highway.
The Church of the Resurrection of Christ offers a gorgeous view of Foros and the nearby mountains, although the temple itself looks no less impressive against the background of the coast, taken from the road above. In principle, it is not far from the church to the Baydarskiye Vorota pass, and it is there that the old road to Sevastopol goes, but, after admiring the sight, it is better to turn back, since the road will be very long.
Walking along the track is quite easy, since it very rarely goes uphill, and even then at a slight angle, and for the most part it is even or slowly descends downhill. The first interesting object, which will meet on the way, more precisely, it will be clearly visible from the road, there will be a tunnel punched by the builders of the new and operating Sevastopol highway in Dragon Mountain.
It is small (about 50-70 meters), but not the most pleasant geological processes are constantly taking place around, and the walls of the tunnel began to collapse over time.
In recent years, traffic along it is one-way, that is, first cars go to Yalta, and then it is the turn of those who move in the opposite direction. In addition, landslide works are constantly being carried out from the Yalta side. It was not possible to find out the exact date of its construction, but there is information that it happened in the early 70s of the last century. So from about this time the old Sevastopol highway began to lose its strategic importance.
Going even further, we will find ourselves near one of the most ancient Crimean transport arteries - the road built by the ancient Romans through the Shaitan-Merdven pass, or the Devil's staircase, which connected South coast Crimea with the rest of it.
The "road" now looks more like a well-equipped trail and it is very easy to follow it. They say that Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin personally overcame this pass, holding on to the tail of a donkey.
In fact, even for junior schoolchildren, there should be no problems in overcoming one of the lowest Crimean passes. The ascent takes about 20 minutes at most and the main thing is not to forget about the shoes, although even in flip flops you can easily walk there. Again, there is information that during the visit to the Crimea of the first famous tourist - Catherine II - they did not dare to let the royal person down to the South Bank, which was then practically wild and had no roads. However, it was from this pass that the empress looked at the new Russian acquisitions and was generally satisfied. This protected object is a monument, so the entrance is paid, but on the other hand, you will be offered an excursion and, again, do not forget that you are still in the mountains, so an experienced guide will not be superfluous. However, it is better not to combine a walk along the highway and an ascent to Shaitan-Merdven, it is better to do it another time. The nearby rocks, by the way, are used by climbers with pleasure for training, so do not be surprised if you see tiny figures of people hanging on ropes or walking on steep rocks.
Well, we move on. By the way, the reason why there are practically no cars on the highway will soon become clear. Several years ago, a large landslide descended on it, due to which it was dangerous to walk there. But now the road has been restored, but the danger of a landslide remains, so motorists do not like this area.
And for us pedestrians, it's even better. On the way, we will meet two villages - Landslide and Blue Bay, through which the highway passes through and survived their better times even before a new route appears. There are shops and food and water supplies. In addition, you can leave from there by bus if your strength leaves you or it becomes clear that you will not have time to pass all the highways. In addition, there are many branches that lead from the old highway down to the new one, so that at any time you can interrupt your walk and return to civilization. As for the coast, during the journey we will pass over several settlements, some of which are so small that it is difficult to distinguish them from a simple cluster of residential buildings. Also in this region there are several large boarding houses and sanatoriums, which are clearly visible from above. Some have saved specific traits Soviet resort architecture, others have been modernized, and still others have been built from scratch in recent years.
After passing the Blue Bay, we come to the "ridge" of Mount Koshka.
Its upper part is still closed to the public and military facilities are located there. During the preparation of the lunar program, Sergei Korolev decided to test the lunar rovers there, because of which ancient burials suffered, but scientific progress then did not really take into account the past. The part of the mountain below the new route is a popular destination for newlyweds, as well as an archaeological site. And there you can also buy the famous "Yalta" sweet onions and the region Blue Bay, Olive, Landslide and Katsiveli is the most favorable for its growth. If you look from above, then to the right of Koshka there will be the village of Katsiveli with a water park and a huge telescope (Crimean Observatory), and to the left - the village of Simeiz with the Diva rock in the sea and the most Mediterranean microclimate in the entire South Coast of Crimea. From Simeiz, and, consequently, from the highway above it, the most famous Crimean mountain Ai-Petri, which is often mistakenly called the highest on the peninsula.
Having danced along the slope of the Cat, we will go to the outskirts of Alupka and to the intersection of two "generations" of the Sevastopol highway. By the way, to sit on regular bus, you will have to walk about 100 meters back on the new highway. If you don't, then the next stop will be already in the Koreiz area after 10 kilometers. The fact is that buses do not just stop on the highway, and you hardly want to have such a bonus to walking along the old highway. By the way, let's count how many have passed. So, from the crossroads at Foros to the temple - 4 kilometers, 2 more - the way back to the crossroads, from which we leave in the direction of the mountains, and from it to Alupka - 22 kilometers. Total - 28 kilometers. That is why it is better not to be distracted by hiking in Shaitan-Merdven, and without it you will see a lot of interesting things.